Factory 1 inch lowering (totally separate from YamaLink)

Tools: Hammer, Punch, Channel Locks (Large), ratchet, extension, 19mm and 17mm socket, adjustable wrench.

    Yamaha - lowering
  1. Put WR on stand. Remove the Connecting Rod Nut. Use the punch and hammer to remove Connecting Rod Bolt from the Relay Arm. The Connecting Rod (what your YamaLink is, too) is the Rod from the frame to the Relay Arm. The Relay Arm is the "L" shaped piece. The Connecting Rod should fall away.
     


  2. Yamaha - lowering

  3. Remove the Lower Shock Nut. Use the punch and hammer to remove the Lower Shock Bolt from the from the Relay Arm. The parts should separate. Put a jack (or blocks) under the rear tire and jack up the rear tire to move all of the linkages away from the lower shock mount.
     



  4. Yamaha - lowering
  5. Use Channel Locks to hold Lower Shock Block. Use adjustable wrench to loosen Jam Nut. Turn Jam Nut & Lower Shock Block UP (they're closer to bottom of black rebound dial than pic #2!). The Lower Shock Block is asymmetrical: the Lower Shock Nut goes on the right side of the bike. Position accordingly and tighten Jam Nut. Don't cinch the jam nut against the rebound adjuster.
  6. Yamaha - lowering

  7. Now would be the time to install the YamaLink, but if you don't want to, lower the tire off of the jack & manually lift wheel to line up the Lower Shock Bolt hole with the Relay Arm hole & push the bolt through. Follow the same procedure for the stock Connecting Rod. It's easier to do with a friend lifting the rear tire. Torque the Lower Shock Bolt to 38 ft-lb & the Connecting Rod Bolt to 58 ft-lb.